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Category: Fabrics, Textiles, Haberdashery

  1. Pre-washing your fabric for making clothes and other sewing projects

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    Did you know that a lot of fabric shrinks on the first wash? You don't want that to happen AFTER you've sewn it into a perfectly fitting garment, so read on to find out more about pre-washing and buying extra fabric just in case it shrinks and for many other reasons..

    Fabric shopping in East Sussex. Brighton Sewing Classes. Royalty free image
    Question One

    Are you planning to wash the item you're about to make during its lifetime, or will you dry clean it?

    a) "I'm only going to dry clean it or never wash it"

    You don't need to pre-wash your fabric. Under normal conditions, the process of dry cleaning should not shrink your clothes, as it uses a chemical solvent in a machine that both washes and dries your clothes

    You may need to buy extra fabric for other reasons - scroll down to find out

    b) "Yes, I am planning to wash it"

     Go to Question Two

    Question Two

    Does your fabric contain any natural content - i.e. cotton, wool, viscose or linen? If so, you need to buy 10% extra fabric and pre-wash your fabric before you cut out and sew it. Man-made fabrics generally don't shrink, but you can wash them anyway if you want to be on the safe side! Follow our pre-washing guide below.

    You may need to buy additional extra fabric for other reasons -  read on to find out

    Reasons you may want/need to buy extra fabric for your project

    If you are going to wash fabric with any natural content, it may shrink - fabric usually shrinks 3-10%. Even boiled wool shrinks significantly when washed! There's always a chance it will shrink more, but it's unlikely. Buy at least 10% extra for each project where you plan to wash it at some point

    You are tall or want a longer garment, curtain, or larger size item than your pattern or project provides - buy 2-4x the extra length you need. Eg if you want the trousers 10cm longer than the pattern, buy 20-40cm of extra fabric. The way the pattern is laid out on the fabric may need up to 4x this extra length depending on the style of garment or item 

    You are using patterned fabric with a 'repeat', and you want to match this on at least one seam - buy 0.5-1m extra, depending on the size of the repeat and number of items you are making. i.e. for curtains, you may need this extra per curtain. When you buy fabric, they may be able to advise, or if buying online, it should say the size of the repeat. You could email the seller to ask if it doesn't state this.

    TOP TIP - if you are in a rush and want to just cut out and sew, but you've not pre-washed your fabric. Find out if it will shrink when washed following this method:

    1. Cut two postcard sized pieces of your fabric (lay your pattern lightly down first to check where your spare fabric will be!) - they need to be identical.
    2. Note which side of the piece was on the straight grain (parallel to the selvedge)
    3. Boil some water in a kettle
    4. Pour it into a heat proof jug, filling it up about a third
    5. Top up with two thirds cold water
    6. Ideally grab a cooking thermometer and check it's at 30 or 40 degrees
    7. Put one of the pieces of fabric in the jug, swish around for a minute or so
    8. Squeeze it dry in a towel
    9. Iron it dry with a suitable heat iron for the fabric
    10. Compare to the other dry bit of fabric
    11. Did it shrink? If so was it on the length/straight grain or on the width/cross grain?
    12. Decide whether to pre-wash your garment. You could just make your garment longer, but note that if it's shrunk on the length and you don't pre-wash, that will mean your garment may have a shorter crotch, shorter shoulder to bust/bust to waist or shorter armholes as well as body or leg length!

    Fabric pre-washing guide

    Check the laundry instructions on your fabric. Does it indicate a max temperature or whether it can be tumble dried, and which iron temperature can be used on it (if ironing is suitable at all - think PVC, which wouldn't be iron-able!)

    Keep a note of these instructions with your fabric and item after you have made it

    Wash your fabric at the temperature you plan to wash it when it's sewn into an item, like this:

    The very best method - no spin!: Machine washing with NO SPIN is by far the best method for washing your fabric, as it avoids the often permanent creases (or very pesky-to-iron creases!) that come from spinning a large amount of fabric in a washing machine. Thicker fabrics like denim, cotton drill and corduroy are often so permanently creased if machine washed and spun that it can render them unusable : (

    Read on for our NO SPIN washing advice.....

    Pre-washing your fabric for making clothes and other sewing projects. Sew I

    For NO SPIN washing you will need:

    Somewhere fabric can hang and drip dry? e.g. garden, balcony or an airer over the bath. Even in the living room with a plastic sheet on the floor (bath curtain?)

    A tub with no holes in it (like a storage box) that will hold your fabric after it has been washed

    A washing machine that can wash it on a gentle wash cycle at the desired temperature with NO SPIN

    Detergent? You don't need any detergent as your fabric is already clean (hopefully!), but you could opt to use a conditioner to soften up your fabric.

    If using vintage fabric or fabric that's been stored for a long time, DO use double detergent in the drawer plus a conditioner, and set your washing machine to do a pre-wash as sometimes older fabric smells of mildew. I often soak 'vintage' smelling fabrics in a dilute white vinegar (eg 5 parts water to one part vinegar) overnight, then wash in the machine - just keep an eye on it though as if it's a print or different colour fabric pieces in one tub, they can run into each other when soaked. I partly ruined my grandmothers fab leopard print this way : (

    Let's wash it!:

    Set your washer following the guidelines above and check the spin is turned off. You only need a short wash if your fabric is new. Have your tub and your drying space ready. Go!

    Drain and spin:

    Once the washer has finished, due to not spinning it there will be water in the machine and it may be dyed a colour if your fabric lost colour on its first wash. Drain and spin the machine, so it's water- and dye-free for your next whites wash! If a lot of colour came out you might consider running a short empty wash or washing some darks next.

    The second best fabric washing method - tennis balls! If you have nowhere to dry dripping fabric, pick the gentlest wash and lowest possible spin speed and if you have them, pop a few tennis balls in the machine, these help avoid creasing. Dryer balls may also help

    Ironing your fabric

    Ironing your fabric to prepare for your next sewing project. Sew In Brighto

    Tip 1: Ironing while still damp: It can be much easier to iron very slightly damp fabric (take care not to stretch it, which can happen if it's too damp). But equally, using the no-spin method, ironing should be fairly easy anyway.

    Tip 2: Spray bottle/spray function on iron: This is your friend when it comes to creases, especially on 2 dots with no steam. We have a spray bottle with water in it on our classroom ironing station

    Once your fabric has almost dried/dried, iron it on the WRONG SIDE (the reverse, to avoid flattening the fibres and creating possible shininess).

    Use the iron temperature indicated on the fabric.

    If in doubt, try it on 2 dots on a corner, and check there's no burning smell. On 2 dots use no steam (you can only use steam with 3 dots otherwise it's just water). 

    You could then gingerly test it on 3 dots if it was fine on 2 dots. Generally if your fabric has man-made fibres it needs to be ironed on 2 dots/no steam.

    For 100% cotton, go for it at max temperature with steam.

    Let it cool before folding or rolling ready for your sewing project

    Happy sewing!

  2. Trend Alert! Step out with confidence in cosy boiled wool

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    Boiled wool is our favourite trend for Autumn! The amazing thing about this fabric is you can cut and leave the edge and it won't fray.  We've used it here to make our easy to sew Coatigan for our new workshop.  This is a throw-it-over-anything garment that's so versatile to wear, you'll want to live in it all season!  

    Coatigan workshop 1 Coatigan workshop 2
       

    Coatigan samples

    We've tried and tested this wonderful, warm and luxurious 100% pure boiled wool knit.  It's available online from Stitch Fabrics in a variety of colours - navy / rose pink / lime, grey marl / tan & other colours! £20/m. 
     
     
     
    .....
     
    Coatigan animal print
     
    We also love this on-trend animal print wool mix coating fabric, from local fabric superstars Fabric Godmother which you can also leave raw-edged for a coatigan.  Perfect for sassy winter warmth! £24/m
     
    .....
     
    Alternative Fabric: Sweatshirting
     
    This is another super trendy & cosy fabric option for making a coatigan.  These are our favourite!...

    1) On a Budget  Fluffy fleecy backed sweatshirting (100% polyester) from Fabric Land in Brighton.  A great way to test out this project on a budget before remaking in a more expensive cloth. £5.69/m

    2) Winter Luxury  Fur plush back sweatshirting online from London based Ray-Stitch.  SIB owner Kat REALLY wants to make a coatigan in this stunning fabric! £20/m

    3) Go Green  Organic cotton fleece back sweatshirting from Organic Textile Company's online shop.  It comes in a variety of colours and is VERY wide, meaning it will cost you less in fabric to make a garment from it. From £10/m
     
    Sweatshirting-05
     
  3. Sussex Fabric Shop focus: The Fabric Shop, Worthing & Burgess Hill

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    This week we've recieved some super cute swatches from The Fabric Shop, which has branches in  Burgess Hill and Worthing. Jenni who is wearing the gold skirt in the attached pic has just completed our Fashion Design & Pattern Cutting course and bought all her fabrics from there - they were gorgeous.

    It's a large shop with a huge range - I've attached my favourites here - cute rabbit print poly/linen £14.99 a metre, plus 2 gorgeous hard wearing cotton backed oil cloths at £12.99 a metre.

    The Fabric Shop also sell Husqvana Viking sewing machines from £150, plus made to measure curtains, haberdashery and hand knitting paraphernalia!

     moldiv_1456063728416 moldiv_1456063852180

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    fashion design course - final skirt
    Jenni's skirt made from a fab remnant from The Fabric Shop, Worthing   

    The Fabric Shop Ltd
    The Show Rooms 55 Chapel Road Worthing BN11 1EF

    The Fabric Shop Ltd
    36 The Martlets Burgess Hill        RH15 9NN

    http://www.thefabricshops.co.uk/fabrics

  4. Tips for choosing Tailored Jacket fabrics - an interview with Dragonfly Fabrics and our Jacket course tutor Jo Bunner

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    With our upcoming Jacket making course in mind, here we interview Katie and Dorte at Dragonfly Fabrics in Sussex and our jacket course tutor Jo Bunner about the best choice for jacket fabrics 

    What's the easiest fabric for a novice jacket maker to use?
     

    The easiest fabric to use would be a wool fabric, like an 100% Italian wool as these are firm. We are have a new range of herringbone tweed that would be suitable also. These fabrics are not too thick so they drape well and they are easy to sew with. Although pure wool fabric is more expensive, we think you will get more from your finished garment. The quality is important to think about, especially when taking the time to make something tailored, quality fabrics will make sewing easier and the jacket durable. 
     
  5. Why you need a favourite stretchy dress!

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    Everyone needs a fab pull on dress - I wear mine over jeans (which I also make btw, with minimal waistband bulk for just this purpose!). 

    We've run our stretch dress course quite a few times now and it's always gratifying to see my students enjoying creating multiple dresses after the course! Plus people have used the pattern to make tops too, and we can help adapt it into different styles if they want.

    See images below of regular student (who started as absolute beginner not long ago!) Rebecca in her various incarnations of the dress. 

    favourite stretch dress - rebecca red dress  favourite stretch dress rebecca print 

    I've a fab beige/black spot jersey I can't wait to get started with - and the butterfly one below is one I made for the original course but for some reason never quite got round to hemming, so thats a job for this week! The blue one is the original sample you may have seen on our wall at the Sewing Lounge. The fabric is from Fabric Land - most unusal, always worth a look to see what they have in store - otherwise Ditto fabrics on Kensington Gardens in Brighton (or online) usually have some great upmarket plain and printed jerseys you could use.

     fav stretch dress - butterly dress (copy 1)  favourite stretch dress kat  


    Make Your Own Stretch Dress
     in our weekly Stitch Classes

    More info and booking here

    Also check out my Pinterest board for inspiration on how to wear and which styles to make

    Follow Sew's board Simple stretch dress on Pinterest.

     

  6. Closs & Hamblin (C&H) Brighton - Interview

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    dynamicimage

     

    Interview With C&H Fabrics, Western Rd, Brighton

    C & H Fabrics Ltd was started on 1st April 1933 by C.W. Hamblin and Mr H. Closs, and has now grown into a huge store over several floors with a great selection of fabrics, wools, haberdashery products and many other household and gifts items. 

    We had the fantastic opportunity to interview Diana Hing and James Hamblin, the manager and Personnel of the store, to learn more about the store and the products it sells. 

    • What is the main audience of your business?

      Up to 5 years ago the main audience was aged 45 and over and predominantly female, but in the last few years this has lowered to age 35 and over. Also many more young people has been buying products for school projects,which is encouraged by the10% discount to products for school work. 

    • What do you think are the popular sewing products bought?

      On the whole the product sales are very even, although C&H do sells huge numbers of scissors, people really appreciate good fabric scissors. The most popular editions are the Fiskars scissors, these are very good quality and last up to 10years before needing to be replaced. They also sell a lot of velcro, Wundaweb, and fabric dyes. The increased sales in fabric dyes has been quite recent, and is probably related the rise in young people buying from the store, and also the recent tie dye trends. A greater number of dyes are sold in the Brighton store than other stores across the country, which Diana believes is due to the greater interest in crafts in Brighton, as well as the outlook of older people here is in general younger and funkier.

    • What are the different types of fabrics that you sell?

      Interestingly the customers often follow the advice and ideas of the staff, as opposed to having fixed ideas themselves. They also find that wool is very popular, which may be as it is a natural fabric and also very easy to work with, as therefore popular with less experienced stitchers. They have also seen a rise in crafts and with this a shift towards the use of fabrics for craft projects as opposed to dress making. People coming to C&H expect quality and something different rather than simply cheap and cheerful. 

    • Personally what have you sewn or made that you have been most proud of?

      James, the area manager of C&H, isn't a regular crafter and stitcher, but when training for his position he knitted a scarf with the help of other members of staff in the store. Whereas Diana sews a lot, creating a variety of clothing and pieces for the home. Her favourite creation was the silk curtains and matching silk roman blinds she made for own home, and feels very proud when seeing them within her home. She also makes a lot of clothing, particularly skirts, which she makes from scratch without any pattern! 

    • Sewing, knitting and crafts are very fashionable hobbies now, what do you think has sparked this?

      Crafts and sewing became fashionable when celebrities like Julia roberts and Gwyneth Paltrow started knitting 6 years ago. Kirsty Allsopp has also been a massive influence, especially following her an episode of 'Kirstys Homemade Home' in which she made pom poms, C&H sold out of pom pom kits. Also Gok Wan brought embellishing into fashion, helping to set trends, and also increase the sales of materials to embellish clothes from home. Usually as well as materials for dress making, C&H also sells a lot of fabric and wool for creating dog beds and coats, which mimics the trend of pet fashions and clothing.  

    • Do you think that the Great British Sewing Bee has had a big major affect on the sales of sewing and craft materials? And how?

      The Great British Sewing Bee has been a great influence on sales of fabrics and dress making materials. People nowadays want to be different and individual, especially with the increase in mass produced cheap fast fashion.  

    • How do you think that young people could become more excited about sewing and crafts?

      Diana believes that by getting young children to touch and feel fabrics, such as angora and velvet, they would become more interested in fabrics, craft and sewing from an early age. Also teaching people more about the background of fabrics and the technical aspects, for instance that silk draws up more colour, thereby looking more vibrant. We also need to raise awareness that young people can create something and get a result they are pleased with , they just need to go for it! People are put off be crafts and sewing as they see it as complicated, but Diana says people ought to “just get a lovely fabric and go for it!”. 

    https://www.candh.co.uk/map

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